Just one day after we got back from Montezuma (and I ranted and raved about how much I loved the wildlife), Megan went out on the front porch for something and saw this guy sitting on the fence post. My handy-dandy Costa Rican field guide says it’s a “Common Opossum”.
Saturday, November 14, 2009
Tuesday, November 10, 2009
Montezuma & Monkeys
Our latest adventure brought us to the southern end of the Nicoya Peninsula to a sleepy little beach town called Montezuma. We are getting used to Costa Rica’s tourist towns being less developed than we are used to, and Montezuma is no exception. The main part of town is really just a T-intersection.
But its lack of size is more than compensated by its funky character, and one of the more interesting central parks I’ve ever seen. This large green space has big trees and a play set, much like any other park, but these trees are awesome, huge old-growth jungle trees, with vines and twisted roots and dense foliage. The play set was a little different as well, in that right at exact center of the top of the slide was a big pile of monkey crap! Oh yeah, that was the best part of this central park. The resident pack of white-faced, capuchin monkeys (at least that what my handy-dandy Costa Rican field guide tells me they are)
This trip was a little different as well in that we went with our friends, the Gonzales family. And it was a good thing too (not to mention a lot of fun!), as shortly after we left we had car trouble and had to return to Atenas & leave the car at the mechanic. So now we are much later than we wanted to be, and worried that we would miss the ferry we needed to take from Puntarenas. Add to that it was raining most of the day, so that when we arrived we were all a bit stressed I guess, and didn’t really get a good first impression of things.
For example, maybe I’ve been spoiled by the other beaches we’ve been to lately, but this one was a bit rockier and steeper such that the waves sort of just formed and then crashed right away and you couldn’t really play in them much, but perhaps we just picked a bad day.
Anyway, the longer we stayed there the better we all seemed to enjoy it, and the kids didn’t have any complaints about the beach at all.
Our last morning there, I was awoken at 7-ish by what sounded like somebody jumping on the roof. I looked out the window and saw a pack of monkeys right outside scrambling through the trees (and probably jumping on my roof!). They looked like they were eating the leaves or fruit or something. What a great sight. We also saw an armadillo, an Agouti (so sayeth the field guide), a Coati, and one night Megan and I were walking into town and some big furry thing scurried down a tree just to the right of us on the path and scarred the crap out of us. No idea what it was, but give me some time and I’ll be sure it was a jaguar. We could hear (but no one saw) howler monkeys as well, and it was so cool to know that we were in a place that the development hadn’t pushed out the wildlife yet.
The accommodations we had were both quite good but not as cheap as we’ve been used to, so either low season is over, or Montezuma doesn’t play by those rules. And unfortunately, we got ripped off in an obvious tourist trap restaurant (“The Bakery Cafe”, not that I’m mentioning any names). It had “Queso Hamburgesa”, or cheeseburger in the menu for 2000 colones, and then some other stuff written in small print below. So, when we got the bill for 4000 colones for each burger we went back to menu and realized that the small print was if you want MEAT in your burger, it’ll cost more!!! Oh well.
The 2 families got along well enough for at least 2 new nicknames to emerge, with John becoming Macgyver for his extreme resourcefulness, and Megan becoming Black Mountain Woman during the poker game (long story). The hair-raising trip back from Montezuma to Paquero racing to catch the 11:00 ferry was crazy, but hilarious (and successful). If you could see some of the “huecos”, or potholes on that road, you’d know what I was talking about.
Click on the following pics to see a bit larger…
The Ferry dock in Puntarenas
Central Park
El Mono
The Coati, I think…
Miscellaneous Wildlife…
La Playa I
La Playa II
La Playa III
Street Vendors
The Ferry dock at Paquera. (The hills behind look so lush it looks like broccoli)
Patsy, Mygyver & Black Mountain Woman…
Homeward Bound…
Thursday, November 5, 2009
Rainy Season
I don’t know if you will be able to get the full idea of how hard it can rain here in the video below, but hopefully you get the idea.
For the longest time people around here were complaining because we were not getting much for rain at all, however, the last couple of weeks have tried to make up for it. Apparently we are in an “El Nino” year (or is that “La Nina”?), which means it doesn’t rain as much. When that has happened in the past, it can affect the water supply later in year. If it’s really low, it can even affect the power as it’s mainly hydro here in Costa Rica. In the past there were rolling blackouts everyday for parts of the dry season because of it.
The 2 Cane Toads you see in the video are our resident buddies who live in the drain pipes. When it rains hard they always come up for a visit.
Sunday, November 1, 2009
Festival De Danza
Rachel's grade 3 class participated by doing a traditional Costa Rican "Tampico" dance. (I'll try to set a link to the youtube video below). One of Rachel's classmates, Samantha is a Tica (born here) with a Tico father and a North American mother who runs the local dance studio. Because of that, there were lots of people we know in the various dances, and of course Samantha was in a few, and is quite talented. Rachel thought she was "awesome". Gabby and Trisha were also in a few of the dances, and they are also good and you can tell they both love to perform. Leah also was in one of the dances, but unfortunately it was at the later end of the night, and we snuck out early, so we missed it. Nathan's buddy Wyatt has a little sister Savanna, who is only 4 years old, and she was in 2 dances that were great. Trying to teach 4 year olds how to dance must be like herding cats, but they were a hit.
The church hall was absolutely jammed, with standing room only, and lots of people outside peering in through the bars. They were serving pop and typical Costa Rican food (rice and beans, tortillas, a sort of cheesy potatoe mixture, etc. etc.)
In the middle of Rachel's class performance, somebody in the crowd pulled out the plug and the music died, and they had to exit and start all over again... It was quite hilarious, but in typical Costa Rican style, nobody seemed to care, including the girls.
For any of you from the kids old school in Calgary, St. Benedicts, you will see a striking resemblance to one of Senora Moir's Spanish Fiesta Night dances. In fact, Rachel was only a last minute addition to the performance, and it was only because she had done similar dances with Senora Moir, was she able to get up to speed so quickly. Senior Moir, muchisimas gracias a usted!
Monday, October 26, 2009
Samara & Playa Carrilo
Oh, and one other thing that I love about Costa Rica is the cost of car repairs. We were coming back Monday morning, and I stopped to gas up. The guy at the station notices that one of my hoses has sprung a leak and points it out to me. We are 3 and a half hours from home and I have car problems... Just what you want. Anyway, the guy tells me there is a mechanic about a kilometer down the road, so off we go. We are out in the middle of nowhere when I notice the sign, and it's hardly the bright clean Petro-Canada station I see... More like that shop in the Texas Chainsaw Massacre. So we pull in anyway and I try to explain the problem to the guy. He tells me it's one of the heater hoses, and sends his buddy down the road for a new part. When he comes back he says they don't have the part and I figure I'm screwed... but wait! the mechanic goes off for a few minutes and comes back with "un otra solucion", (another solution). He fabricated the part, put it on, it worked like a charm, and by the look of it, it will probably be better than the original part anyway. When I asked how much it would cost me he says 3000 colones. That's less than $6 bucks Canadian. Gotta love Costa Rica!!!
Samara Beach...
Notice the crowds & the high rises?
Our accomodations...
Playa Carillo...
The Zoo...
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
Ahhhhh... The Beach!
We have been in Costa Rica for 6 or 7 weeks, but we have been spending way too much time looking for a house, getting the kids going in school, etc. etc. to really have a relaxing good time. That is until this past weekend. It was a long weekend here for us a well as you guys in Canada, but not because of Thanksgiving. As far as I could tell it was a mandated school holiday, sort of a professional day, I guess.
So, right after school on Friday (the kids get out at 12:15 on Fridays), we headed off to "Esterillos Oeste", a little beach/surfing community a little over an hour away, just south of Jaco. It is mentioned in the touristy guide books, but we were again blown away at how UNDER-developed it seemed to us. There is very little infrastructure, only one or two small stores, bad roads, a few surf shops, a few restaurants, and some cool beach bars with a lot of character. I guess I am comparing this to the Mexican Riviera, which is what I keep expecting at these places, but perhaps this is what Playa Del Carmen looked like before the developers got a hold of it.
Don't get me wrong, I'm certainly not complaining, just the opposite in fact. It was stunning to look down what seemed like miles of gorgeous beach and NOT see anything taller than the trees. There were no signs saying NO this, and NO that. There were no trinket sellers, nobody trying to convince you to go para-gliding or jet-skiing, no lifeguards or colored flags warning about wave conditions - NADA! You could drive right up to the beach (or as one guy was doing drive your ATV up and down the beach,) open your car door and set up your BBQ, cooler, basically whatever you wanted for the day . And every day we saw the same 3 or 4 local dogs (not sure if they actually belonged to anyone- I doubt it) chasing each other or some of the passing-by horses on the beach. It occured to me that every other beach I've been to has seemed somewhat of a "controlled" situation, and this one was not. I thought more than once that I was lucky enough once in my life to find a cool beach before it got famous. The wild flocks of spectacular Scarlet Macaws is also something else you don't see in the Mexican Riviera (anymore???).
The other side of that coin is that there are also no garbage cans or bathrooms on the beach either (but I hasten to add that the beach was NOT dirty. Most people seemed to be quite good about packing out their own garbage, and the beach bars had no trouble with you using their bathrooms). Nor were there any signs warning you about possible rip tides, or salt-water crocodiles in the water either (see story below)
In the end, the lack of a few conveniences was completely minor compared to the feeling of a REAL freedom that I was surprised to realize you don't get very often in our over-controlled world. I liked it... a lot!
The place we stayed at was called Apartamentos Iguanas, and it was a very nice, clean, well run place. It was not right on the beach, but an easy 5 minute walk away. We got a room with a kitchette, so we had breakfast & lunch there, and ate our dinners at the local restaurants. It had cable TV which was actually a treat for us because we have been without TV for the whole time so far. I got to watch the Costa Rican under-20 national soccer team make it into the quarterfinals of the under-twenty world cup, which is as far as any national team has gone in an important tournament.
One afternoon I was sitting on the balcony outside our room and we saw some very large Iguanas up high in the trees (See pics below). Two of them were quite close to each other and were bobbing their heads up and down, and were perhaps having a territorial dispute. Anyway, push came to shove and one of them fell at least 40 feet down to the ground, right before our eyes. We think it survived as we saw a similar-looking one crawling the tree a short time later, but can't be sure. Regardless, it was fabulous to see first hand. The Apartamentos Iguanas is aptly named.
The actual beach was huge and had a large difference between low and high tide. So you could alternate between low tide pools and big waves. It is a surfing beach afterall, and depending on the time and tide there were some good waves, and our kids LOVE the waves. It's the one place where we can go for hours at a time and not have petty fights. They sit there waiting for the next really big one to come and then run screaming away from it. They both loved it. Nathan got tossed around so much, I started to call him "Bob" because you never knew exactly where he would bob up from once a wave passed. (Don't worry Grandmas - they were perfectly fine.) They eventually learned you could dive under the really big ones without much impact, so they both became a little braver and went out a bit further. We also inherited a little boogie board with our car down here, and they both had a go with that, but are perhaps a year or two away from mastering that just yet. Once they got tired of the waves they would go and find shells, or dig holes, or bury each other in sand for a while, but soon enough it was back to the waves. That was the big attraction.
The first day Nathan and I were out in the waves, and I swear I saw something that MIGHT have been a crocodile just before it submerged. (No, it was still early in the day and I had not consumed several Imperials - Nathan thought he saw something too.) Could it actually be true that 7 year old Nathan had just had his SECOND close encounter with a crocodile in the open ocean, or did I just see a piece of driftwood? Megan is quite sure it was the latter of the two. (The first was in Nuevo Vallarta, Mexico a couple of years ago when a croc was spotted VERY near to where our kids were playing in the ocean in front of our hotel.) I'll never know, but I did ask around and they do get crocs in open ocean here on occasion, especially after a good rain... (Hmmmm, it had rained most of the night before). However, attacks are very rare, and, like shark attacks, usually happen farther out than the breaking beach waves, and again like shark attacks, it's the surfers who are more at risk. Still, I will freely admit to being more than a little freaked out AGAIN, and questioned whether what we were doing was responsible parenting. In the end I decided the kids are probably in much more risky situations when we are doing our everyday driving on the Costa Rican roads. (Which on second reading doesn't really help my responsible parenting argument much, does it?)
Oh, and one other example that this area has yet to be "discovered" is the cost of things. We went out for supper on Megan's birthday and I had a Caribbean jerk chicken dish, Megan had a Thai chicken dish, the kids has cheese quesadillas, plus we had a couple of beers, a grape pop and a shared a brownie sundae dessert, and with tax and tip, it cost all of $32 Canadian. I figure the whole weekend cost us about $300 Canadian. You'd be lucky to get 3 nights in the Super 8 hotel in the Calgary for that price!
Some pics...
And another...
Tuesday, October 6, 2009
Rachel's 9th
It started last night when we picked her up after school... Our plan was to get her ears pierced, as all the Costa Rican girls have them done, and I think she wanted to "fit in" a bit more. We asked around where to get it done, and 3 different people told us that most Costa Rican girls get their ears pierced when they are 4 DAYS old, so they get it done at the clinic as part of their first check up, I think. Anyway, all 3 groups said we would need to get it done at the clinic. So, off we went as instructed. When we got there, there was what looked like a busy waiting room with a reception desk, similar to what we might see back home - this couldn't be the place?!? I started asking in my bumbly Spanish "where can I get my daughters ears pierced," and of course everybody looked at me like I was a bit crazy.... Sigh... Finally found a nurse to ask and, if I understood her correctly, she said that the nurse who usually does ear piercing was "incapacitaded" and wouldn't be back until at least Sunday. Great!
So, now Rachel's crying, and we now had no real idea where else to try. But wait, there is a private clinic as well! So, off we go there, and we park right under the "Ambulance Service - Open 24 hours" sign, go up to the door... and it's locked... No one home... Gotta love Costa Rica.
So we give up, and decide to go rent a movie (since we still don't have TV - hopefully coming soon.) Rachel's devastated, and barely gets out of the truck. Right beside the movie rental store, there is a salon for manicures, haircuts etc. Anyway, Megan says "why don't we ask in here?" So I do and she says, yeah, we do that. So Rachel (and us as well) practically does the dance of joy and now she's happier than a pig in..well, you know.... It cost 7000 colones (less than $14 Canadian), and that included the hypo-allergenic earring post thingies, or whatever you call them. They look great, and Rachel is happy again.
Today went much better. We picked her up after school, blindfolded her and told her we were taking her to see someone - the someone was Kay at "Kay's Gringo Postres", and Rachel LOVES the grilled cheese sandwiches there - think white bread with processed cheese slices, covered in butter, and fried to a perfect golden brown. You could put the picture on a Denny's menu! We had gone there earlier in the day and set up a homemade Happy Birthday sign and laid out some presents with it. Then, rather than take a cake, Kay makes great home-made apple pie, (another of Rachel's fav's) which we put a candle in, and sang Happy Birthday with Kay and a couple of gringos who just happened to be hanging out in the cafe. Then the last surprise was when we pulled up at home, Rachel was greeted with a "Pucca" pinata (for those not in the know, Pucca is a character in a Japanese animated kids' show - kids seem to love it, not sure why.) So it wasn't a big wild free-for-all with kids whacking away - just Rachel and Nathan whacking first with a piece of wood we found, then a piece of rebar (yikes!) and finally the broom-stick did the trick.
Tomorrow should be lots of fun as we are going out to dinner with 2 other (gringo) families who have kids in the same school as ours because the other Mom is also celebrating her birthday this week. But what we're looking forward to most is Friday - school lets out at 12:15 and then we are off to Esterillos for 3 days at the beach. Wahooo! Our first beach excursion - we're all very excited to be able to go hunting for shells and sand dollars, play in the waves, and watch the surfers. We'll let you know how it goes.